Unbridled Elegance
Sydney Morning Herald
Tuesday November 13, 1990
THE Hermes Sydney boutique opened on Wednesday night in the Castlereagh Street corridor of style.
Jean-Louis Dumas Hermes, chairman and chief executive of the famous French house, arrived in one of two horse-drawn carriages, snipped the famous ochre ribbon and with discreet charm welcomed 180 guests.
Hermes was founded in 1837 and, then as now, made harnesses for carriage horses. More famous today for its exquisite scarves with as many as 35 or 40 vibrant colours in each one, they are the favoured head wrap of the horsy set. Jean-Louis must be amused that one is immortalised on the English 17 pence stamp, knotted firmly on the tip of the monarch's chin.
Hermes is also remembered as the company which named a handbag after Princess Grace - the deep-pocketed Kelly Bag - and then another after Australian model Elle MacPherson. Hermes has been thrilling young admirers for several years now, ever since an advertising campaign which featured Elle brought new attention from a younger generation.
In Paris Hermes is folklore. There's a rule of thumb that says when you turn 14 you receive your first Hermes scarf. If you are a Parisienne you will buy it from the boutique on the Faubourg Saint Honore, where 800 craftsmen still toil. It is a unique situation in the chic 8th arrondissement where the company is now the only manufacturer.
If these young Parisiennes don't use their scarf knotted on the chin then they will wind it through the belt loops of jeans, twist it around their neck or tie it as a bandeau. There is more in store. Gloves, belts, jewellery, watches, rugs, shawls in explosive, solid colours - red, emerald, lapis blue and violet. Hermes is witty too. There's a leather case for your chewing gum, a discreet box for your sweetener.
Jean-Louis is dedicated to creating modern luxury, a word he dislikes.
"I prefer to use excellence," he says and goes on to explain the origins of the house. "Hermes was founded to put elegance on the move with harnesses. We quickly understood we were connected with utility. In France, we find great beauty in utility.
"The first customer of Hermes was a horse. It was the owner of the horse who bought the harness, but if the harness had been badly made the horse would have let this owner know. The horse has no idea of the price, but when he's comfortable, he runs well. If he isn't he breaks through the harness.
"You cannot understand Hermes if you do not understand light and colour and the importance of quality. We put elegance into the purposeful. We are faithful to the philosophy on which the company was founded; we put elegance on the move."
Maintaining standards of excellence has had the effect of making Hermes the least copied of all the luxury goods houses which regularly see imitations of their watches and handbags awash in South-East Asia. It is said that by the time a Hermes scarf is taken from its box it has passed through several hundred pairs of hands, from those which selected the silk threads to those which hand-rolled the edges.
"The joy, the fun and privilege of Hermes is that we only do half of the job. The customer does the best part of it. My grandfather once told a customer, 'Don't compliment me. I only give birth to the objects. You - the customer, the patron - you give them life'.
"So many times I have been in interesting places and seen, for example, a scarf worn by a South American girl. Her skin and the colours - it's such a joy. Like cultivating flowers. You plant the seed, you watch them grow, you don't know until you have seen them in the vase how harmonious they are.
"Hermes is like this in all the objects we touch. We are travelling along a road where we never leave the lane, meaning the philosophy. We are true to our origins - that is the strength."
© 1990 Sydney Morning Herald